I’m searching for a simple but accurate lux meter to measure light levels and verify footcandle readings across different surfaces for my architectural projects. I need something portable and reliable, but I’m not sure where to start. Any suggestions are appreciated!
I have both a Sekonic L-308X-U and an Opple Light Master. Despite some negative reviews, the Opple usually reads within 5% of my Sekonic and also measures color. For accurate readings, though, I stick to the Sekonic.
@Wynn
My Opple Light Master III varies quite a bit, showing +18% for incandescent and -12% for LED compared to my Sekonic. It also can’t handle direct sunlight as the range maxes out quickly.
@Wynn
The Opple is decent for basic checks, but it’s not precise. Its flicker measurement is okay, color measurements can be hit or miss, and it’s better for individual CRI numbers than exact Kelvin readings. I had five at one point, and each read differently until I calibrated them. It’s a good entry-level tool but not something I’d rely on for high accuracy.
@Winter
Mine reads 2700K incandescent bulbs as 3200K, though it’s more accurate with LEDs. Any advice on self-calibration?
Phoenix said:
@Winter
Mine reads 2700K incandescent bulbs as 3200K, though it’s more accurate with LEDs. Any advice on self-calibration?
Yes, it’s possible to calibrate it, but you’ll need a light source with a known Kelvin value. I use a stable 4000K source, which got mine within 200K of actual. But remember, accurate calibration depends on having a reliable reference light.
@Winter
I have access to a Sekonic Spectromaster and high-CRI bulbs. Any tips for the calibration process?
Phoenix said:
@Winter
I have access to a Sekonic Spectromaster and high-CRI bulbs. Any tips for the calibration process?
If you have a Sekonic, you can adjust the readings through its firmware. It’s not a foolproof method, but it might help to close the gap. Some users work with engineers to try to refine these settings, though improvements have been slow.
What’s your budget and how accurate do you need it to be? Many cheaper meters, especially from certain brands, tend to be less reliable. For solid accuracy, consider models from Japan, Germany, or other reputable sources.
@Phoenix
What exactly is hard about this?
Matching the spectral response to the human eye is an old problem that’s already been solved.
Finnley said:
@Phoenix
What exactly is hard about this?
Matching the spectral response to the human eye is an old problem that’s already been solved.
Matching spectral response does take effort, though. A high-quality meter with proper spectral response typically costs $600 or more. Don’t forget cosine response as well.
@Phoenix
By definition, lux is already calibrated to match average human eye sensitivity, so unreliable meters are really just suffering from poor calibration.
Portable is relative, but if you don’t need it to fit in a pocket and can stretch the budget, Konica Minolta meters are my top pick. Reach out to a local rep to discuss options that suit your needs.
Be mindful about calibration, though – some smaller meters require shipping overseas for recalibration, which can be both time-consuming and costly.
Any thoughts on “Made in Germany” meters?
Gossen Mavospec Base is an option worth looking at.